Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Friday, September 26, 2008
Meet the 2008 ASPCA Dog of the Year
Ten-year-old Cole Massie of Los Angeles, CA, may live with cerebral palsy, but he has all the support a kid could want, thanks to a very special black Lab/golden retriever mix named Ilia.
Recently crowned ASPCA Dog of the Year as part of the 2008 Humane Awards program, Ilia performs service duties like bringing items to Cole in his wheelchair and opening and closing doors. But the pooch also has that special healing touch that can’t be taught. “He provides amazing incentive to Cole during therapies, doctor’s appointments and procedures,” says Cole’s mom, Michelle Massie. “He calms, inspires and motivates my son far better than anyone ever has."
Or, as Cole sums it up: "I like when he lies next to me in bed at night and we listen to Harry Potter on CD, and that he helps to clean me when I'm in the bath by licking my face and arms. He's my furry brother and best friend—and a serious bed hog!
This past July, three years after boy and dog were paired by the nonprofit Canine Companions for Independence, Cole was faced with a difficult, but life-changing surgery. “He had walked on his toes, and his feet were totally rolled in,” says Massie. “The operation would allow him to use his feet and free him of the wheelchair.”
“Cole was frightened by the idea of surgery at first,” remembers Massie. “We explained how much more independent he’d be afterward, but he wasn’t buying it. Finally, we told him that if he had this procedure, there was a very good chance he’d be able to walk Ilia on his own—with no parents and no walker." After that, says Massie, "Cole would stroke the dog’s head in bed each night and whisper, 'I will walk you, Ilia. I will walk you.'"
After much coaxing, Cole underwent the surgery in Summit, NJ, and Ilia traveled more than 7,000 miles to be by the boy's side. The ten-year-old is now on his way to becoming an independent walker—and his dedicated service dog will be with him every step.
The entire family will attend the ASPCA Humane Awards Luncheon in New York City this October 30, where Ilia will be honored along with seven other extraordinary animals and people.
P.S. We'd like to remind you, pet lovers, that even heroes have their quirks. As Massie reveals, “Ilia knows 46 commands, but he won’t fetch!”
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Destructive Behavior
Chewing is a perfectly normal behavior for dogs. Dogs love to chew on bones and sticks—and just about anything else available. They chew for fun, they chew for stimulation and exercise, and they chew to relieve anxiety.
But that’s not it on the list of destructive behaviors. Dogs also steal things off the counters and tabletops, and they raid the trash. Most dogs prefer human food to dog food and, if given the opportunity, will help themselves. While these behaviors are normal, dogs can, of course, be taught to control themselves. Understand that your dog needs to learn not to chew your things or steal your food—he’s not born knowing that he shouldn’t.
What to do:
- Provide the dog with plenty of his own toys and chew bones; introduce something new every day or two.
- Give the dog a “single serving” chew bone once or twice a day—something he will finish in one chew session (i.e. Greenie, Dentabone, rawhide chip, etc.).
- Identify the times of the day when your dog is likely to chew, and give him a stuffed Kong, Goodie Ship, or Buster Cube at this time. You can include some of his daily ration of food in the toy.
- Discourage chewing inappropriate items with chewing deterrents, such as Bitter Apple or Chew Guard* (see below for application tips).
- Always supervise your dog. If you see him licking or chewing an item he shouldn’t, say “uh uh,” remove the item from his mouth and insert something that he can chew. Be sure to praise him.
- Booby-trap the counters and tables to discourage the dog from jumping up. You can try double-sided sticky tape, cookie sheets placed precariously so they fall down if the dog touches them and a pyramid of empty soda cans all tied together and placed so that they fall if the dog touches them (you can tie to a small tidbit of food to this contraption).You can also place “baits” to be stolen: food adulterated with bad-tasting substances, such as Tabasco or Bitter Apple.
What not to do:
- Do not show the dog the damage and spank, scold, or punish him after the fact.
- There are dog training books still being published today that advocate dangerous and inhumane techniques, such as using duct tape to hold a dog’s mouth closed around a chewed object, or filling a hole with water and holding a dog’s head under. Just in case it’s not obvious—methods such as these are ineffective and horribly cruel
- Do not crate the dog for lengthy periods of time to prevent destructive chewing.
* Using taste deterrents: When you first use the deterrent, apply a small amount to a piece of tissue or cotton wool. Place it directly into the dog’s mouth, allow him to taste it and then spit it out. The dog has learned the link between the taste and the odor of the substance and will be more likely to avoid chewing items that smell like the substance. Re-apply the deterrent to the off-limits objects every day for 2-4 weeks.
But that’s not it on the list of destructive behaviors. Dogs also steal things off the counters and tabletops, and they raid the trash. Most dogs prefer human food to dog food and, if given the opportunity, will help themselves. While these behaviors are normal, dogs can, of course, be taught to control themselves. Understand that your dog needs to learn not to chew your things or steal your food—he’s not born knowing that he shouldn’t.
What to do:
- Provide the dog with plenty of his own toys and chew bones; introduce something new every day or two.
- Give the dog a “single serving” chew bone once or twice a day—something he will finish in one chew session (i.e. Greenie, Dentabone, rawhide chip, etc.).
- Identify the times of the day when your dog is likely to chew, and give him a stuffed Kong, Goodie Ship, or Buster Cube at this time. You can include some of his daily ration of food in the toy.
- Discourage chewing inappropriate items with chewing deterrents, such as Bitter Apple or Chew Guard* (see below for application tips).
- Always supervise your dog. If you see him licking or chewing an item he shouldn’t, say “uh uh,” remove the item from his mouth and insert something that he can chew. Be sure to praise him.
- Booby-trap the counters and tables to discourage the dog from jumping up. You can try double-sided sticky tape, cookie sheets placed precariously so they fall down if the dog touches them and a pyramid of empty soda cans all tied together and placed so that they fall if the dog touches them (you can tie to a small tidbit of food to this contraption).You can also place “baits” to be stolen: food adulterated with bad-tasting substances, such as Tabasco or Bitter Apple.
What not to do:
- Do not show the dog the damage and spank, scold, or punish him after the fact.
- There are dog training books still being published today that advocate dangerous and inhumane techniques, such as using duct tape to hold a dog’s mouth closed around a chewed object, or filling a hole with water and holding a dog’s head under. Just in case it’s not obvious—methods such as these are ineffective and horribly cruel
- Do not crate the dog for lengthy periods of time to prevent destructive chewing.
* Using taste deterrents: When you first use the deterrent, apply a small amount to a piece of tissue or cotton wool. Place it directly into the dog’s mouth, allow him to taste it and then spit it out. The dog has learned the link between the taste and the odor of the substance and will be more likely to avoid chewing items that smell like the substance. Re-apply the deterrent to the off-limits objects every day for 2-4 weeks.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Introducing a New Puppy or Dog to the Resident Dog
Dogs are social animals and most enjoy the company of other dogs. However, it can be tricky to introduce a new puppy or dog into the family. The resident dog may not be accustomed to having other dogs in his home or he may not appreciate having to share your attention. First impressions are important, so you’ll need to do what you can to maximize the chances of success.
If your dog has a history of fighting with other dogs, please consult with a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, Veterinary Behaviorist, or Certified Professional Dog Trainer before introducing the new dog.
PreparationBefore you bring the new puppy or dog home, remove anything your resident dog might guard, such as food bowls, bones, chew toys, toys, and beds. Even if your dog has never exhibited possessive tendencies before, it is best to exercise caution. If your home is cluttered, clean it up. Congested areas are more likely to trigger aggression because the dogs may feel forced upon each other.
The Initial Meeting: Before You Bring the New Dog HomeEnlist the help of a family member or friend, so there is a person to attend to each dog during this initial meeting. Make your way, separately, to a neutral area, such as a park. An open area in the park is perfect because there are plenty of interesting sights and sounds to distract the dogs and they can move away from each other if they choose. It is best not to introduce the dogs in your house or yard because the resident dog may become territorial.
Bring the dogs together and allow them to greet each other. Do your best to keep slack in the leashes (or let the leashes drop) so the dogs won’t feel like they are being held back. Allow them to sniff. A puppy will typically adopt a submissive position, such as lying down or even rolling over to be investigated by the adult dog. A well-socialized adult dog will likely check out the puppy and then either play with him or ignore him. When two adult dogs meet, they often stand tall and “posture” to each other. They may sniff each other, circle each other, urinate, play, or just decide to ignore each other. Don’t panic if they push each other a bit, growl, or even try standing up on each other’s shoulders. Allow them to do what they do to establish a relationship, with as little intervention from you as possible.
If the dogs try to fight, however, you will need to intervene. If you see signs of serious tension, such as raised hackles, growling, showing teeth, prolonged stares, or snapping, call the dogs away before things escalate. Try not to pull them away by the leash, as the tension on the leash might trigger an attack. If the dogs won’t come away on their own, wave a treat in front of each dog’s nose and then lure them to turn away from each other.
Keep the interactions brief at first. After the dogs greet, go for a walk together. If you have multiple dogs, introduce each dog to the newcomer separately before bringing everyone together as a group.
Bringing the New Dog HomeWalk home from the park with the dogs together and just walk into your home as though nothing has changed. If you have a yard, go there first and let the dogs off leash to hang out while you supervise. When the dogs are ready, bring them into the house. If they got along well at the park and in the yard, let the resident dog off the leash first. Permit the new puppy or dog to explore the room or house on the leash. If the resident dog acts in a friendly manner, let the new pet off the leash.
Always supervise interactions between the dogs until they have been friendly with each other for one to two weeks. They should not be alone together before them. Keep your mealtime, bedtime, walk and play routines the same as before the new dog arrived, so things don’t seem too different for the resident dog.
For the first few weeks, keep an eye on the dogs in situations that might trigger aggression, such as when you come home, when guests come over, going out to the yard, coming in from the yard, preparing to go for a walk, mealtime (theirs and yours), and playtime.
It is very important that you spend time with each dog alone so that the resident dog continues to receive one-on-one attention and the new dog develops a bond with you. If you only hang out with the dogs together, they will become attached primarily to each other, rather than to you. The new dog needs to bond with you.
What not to do: - Do not hold the puppy in your arms for the adult dog to greet. This may cause the puppy to feel trapped and threatened. Instead, stand with your feet slightly apart so the puppy can take refuge between your feet if he feels overwhelmed. Do not permit the older dog to trample, bowl over, or otherwise intimidate the puppy. - Do not put the dogs in small spaces together, such as a car, crate or small room, before they are completely comfortable with each other. Each dog should have his or her own food bowl, bed, and toys. Place the food bowls far apart until the dogs are relaxed when eating together. Do not allow one dog to intimidate the other so that one dog abandons his food. Teach each dog to eat from his own bowl and leave the other bowls alone, even after everyone is finished. - If a fight breaks out, DO NOT let them “fight it out.” You may have heard this popular advice, but permitting the dogs to continue a fight can set the tone for a difficult relationship. Interrupt and separate the dogs if they begin to fight or if one dog beats up on the other dog. It is always better to interrupt fighting so the dogs do not develop a pattern of aggressive behavior.
How should fighting dogs be separated?Get the dogs apart however you can, while doing your best to not be bitten in the process. It is quite common for owners to be bitten breaking up a fight, often by their own dog. Your first action should be to shriek and yell—this works with many dogs. If the dogs are on leash, pull them apart but be aware that you may inadvertently cause the dogs to injure each other as some tend to clamp down with their jaws to resist the pull. If the dogs are off leash, try getting behind one, grabbing him by the body, and lifting him off the ground. Sometimes, the feeling of being airborne causes the dog to stop fighting. Be very careful because this strategy places you in a vulnerable position! If you can’t grab them, try grasping the aggressor by the tail, ear, or testicles. Pinch hard to encourage the dog to turn away from his opponent and toward you, but be ready to jump back if the dog turns to bite you. If one dog is locked onto the other, you may need to pry the dog’s jaws open with your hands or with a stick. Another option is to use your fingers to temporarily cut off the dog’s breath by placing pressure against his windpipe. Spraying the dogs with a water hose or blasting them with an air horn or Direct Stop citronella spray can also be effective.
If your dog has a history of fighting with other dogs, please consult with a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, Veterinary Behaviorist, or Certified Professional Dog Trainer before introducing the new dog.
PreparationBefore you bring the new puppy or dog home, remove anything your resident dog might guard, such as food bowls, bones, chew toys, toys, and beds. Even if your dog has never exhibited possessive tendencies before, it is best to exercise caution. If your home is cluttered, clean it up. Congested areas are more likely to trigger aggression because the dogs may feel forced upon each other.
The Initial Meeting: Before You Bring the New Dog HomeEnlist the help of a family member or friend, so there is a person to attend to each dog during this initial meeting. Make your way, separately, to a neutral area, such as a park. An open area in the park is perfect because there are plenty of interesting sights and sounds to distract the dogs and they can move away from each other if they choose. It is best not to introduce the dogs in your house or yard because the resident dog may become territorial.
Bring the dogs together and allow them to greet each other. Do your best to keep slack in the leashes (or let the leashes drop) so the dogs won’t feel like they are being held back. Allow them to sniff. A puppy will typically adopt a submissive position, such as lying down or even rolling over to be investigated by the adult dog. A well-socialized adult dog will likely check out the puppy and then either play with him or ignore him. When two adult dogs meet, they often stand tall and “posture” to each other. They may sniff each other, circle each other, urinate, play, or just decide to ignore each other. Don’t panic if they push each other a bit, growl, or even try standing up on each other’s shoulders. Allow them to do what they do to establish a relationship, with as little intervention from you as possible.
If the dogs try to fight, however, you will need to intervene. If you see signs of serious tension, such as raised hackles, growling, showing teeth, prolonged stares, or snapping, call the dogs away before things escalate. Try not to pull them away by the leash, as the tension on the leash might trigger an attack. If the dogs won’t come away on their own, wave a treat in front of each dog’s nose and then lure them to turn away from each other.
Keep the interactions brief at first. After the dogs greet, go for a walk together. If you have multiple dogs, introduce each dog to the newcomer separately before bringing everyone together as a group.
Bringing the New Dog HomeWalk home from the park with the dogs together and just walk into your home as though nothing has changed. If you have a yard, go there first and let the dogs off leash to hang out while you supervise. When the dogs are ready, bring them into the house. If they got along well at the park and in the yard, let the resident dog off the leash first. Permit the new puppy or dog to explore the room or house on the leash. If the resident dog acts in a friendly manner, let the new pet off the leash.
Always supervise interactions between the dogs until they have been friendly with each other for one to two weeks. They should not be alone together before them. Keep your mealtime, bedtime, walk and play routines the same as before the new dog arrived, so things don’t seem too different for the resident dog.
For the first few weeks, keep an eye on the dogs in situations that might trigger aggression, such as when you come home, when guests come over, going out to the yard, coming in from the yard, preparing to go for a walk, mealtime (theirs and yours), and playtime.
It is very important that you spend time with each dog alone so that the resident dog continues to receive one-on-one attention and the new dog develops a bond with you. If you only hang out with the dogs together, they will become attached primarily to each other, rather than to you. The new dog needs to bond with you.
What not to do: - Do not hold the puppy in your arms for the adult dog to greet. This may cause the puppy to feel trapped and threatened. Instead, stand with your feet slightly apart so the puppy can take refuge between your feet if he feels overwhelmed. Do not permit the older dog to trample, bowl over, or otherwise intimidate the puppy. - Do not put the dogs in small spaces together, such as a car, crate or small room, before they are completely comfortable with each other. Each dog should have his or her own food bowl, bed, and toys. Place the food bowls far apart until the dogs are relaxed when eating together. Do not allow one dog to intimidate the other so that one dog abandons his food. Teach each dog to eat from his own bowl and leave the other bowls alone, even after everyone is finished. - If a fight breaks out, DO NOT let them “fight it out.” You may have heard this popular advice, but permitting the dogs to continue a fight can set the tone for a difficult relationship. Interrupt and separate the dogs if they begin to fight or if one dog beats up on the other dog. It is always better to interrupt fighting so the dogs do not develop a pattern of aggressive behavior.
How should fighting dogs be separated?Get the dogs apart however you can, while doing your best to not be bitten in the process. It is quite common for owners to be bitten breaking up a fight, often by their own dog. Your first action should be to shriek and yell—this works with many dogs. If the dogs are on leash, pull them apart but be aware that you may inadvertently cause the dogs to injure each other as some tend to clamp down with their jaws to resist the pull. If the dogs are off leash, try getting behind one, grabbing him by the body, and lifting him off the ground. Sometimes, the feeling of being airborne causes the dog to stop fighting. Be very careful because this strategy places you in a vulnerable position! If you can’t grab them, try grasping the aggressor by the tail, ear, or testicles. Pinch hard to encourage the dog to turn away from his opponent and toward you, but be ready to jump back if the dog turns to bite you. If one dog is locked onto the other, you may need to pry the dog’s jaws open with your hands or with a stick. Another option is to use your fingers to temporarily cut off the dog’s breath by placing pressure against his windpipe. Spraying the dogs with a water hose or blasting them with an air horn or Direct Stop citronella spray can also be effective.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
LEASH TRAINING
Leash Manners
Dogs have to be taught to walk nicely on a leash. They are not born knowing that they shouldn’t pull or lag behind, after all. Teaching leash manners can be challenging, primarily because dogs are wildly excited about going for walks, and they find it so rewarding to do their own thing. Some dogs are determined to get where they are going as fast as they possibly can; other dogs want to stop, sniff, and urinate on anything and everything in their path. If you plan to teach your dog to walk nicely on a loose leash, it is critical that you never allow the dog to be rewarded for pulling. If you are inconsistent, your dog will continue to pull because sometimes it pays off. This means that even if you’re in a hurry to take the dog out, you can’t relax the rules and permit the dog to pull!
You may have seen “obedience dogs” at shows or on TV who prance alongside their handlers, staring up with rapt attention. These dogs have been trained in precision heeling. While this looks incredible, it is not something a dog can do for long periods of time. Precision heeling demands constant attention from both dog and handler and is not appropriate for your daily walks around the block or to the park. Even these dogs have been taught basic manners to be able to walk along on a loose leash.
There are various methods for teaching a dog to walk without pulling. No one method works for all dogs. There are certain rules that ought to be followed no matter which approach you opt for:- Until your dog learns to walk without pulling, all walks are training sessions. Keep training sessions frequent, short, and fun for the dog.- Teaching a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of rewards. Use highly desirable treats that the dog does not have access to at other times. Soft treats are best so the dog can eat them quickly. Most dogs love sliced wieners, small cubes of cheese, cut-up pieces of cooked chicken, small chunks of jerky treat and freeze-dried liver. - You’ll be more successful if you find a way to tire the dog out before taking him for a training walk. Dogs pull in part because they are filled with excess energy, and unless you can expend that energy, it will be very hard for your dog to control himself. Play fetch in the hallway or backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive the dog to the park so he can play with his buddies before you attempt to teach him to walk nicely on leash. - Walk at a good, quick pace. If the dog is trotting or running, he has less opportunity to catch a whiff of something enticing, and he is less inclined to stop and eliminate every few steps. You are far more interesting to the dog when you move quickly. - All dogs need to sniff and eliminate on walks. Some dogs take forever choosing the exact best spot on which to urinate or defecate! Allow your dog a certain amount of time, then say, “Okay hurry up,” and give a light tug on the collar. Give him another 30 seconds and repeat, “Okay, let’s walk,” in a firmer tone of voice. Pull the dog away from the spot and resume walking. This way you are giving your dog a warning—and if he really wants to urinate in that spot, he knows he has 30 seconds in which to do it! - If you expect your dog to be controlled while walking on leash, you must also expect him to be controlled before you go for the walk. If your dog gets wildly excited as you prepare to go for a walk, you need to start your training at this point. Walk to the door and pick up the leash. If your dog is racing back and forth from you to the door, barking, whining, spinning, or jumping up, stop and ask your dog to sit. If the dog continues to be wild, put the leash down and go sit and read the paper. Try again a few minutes later. Continue until the dog actually does sit. Praise and reach to put the leash on the dog. If he jumps out of the sit, drop the leash, stand up tall, and say “Sit.” Wait. When the dog sits, try again. This is tedious training that will make your first few attempts to go for a walk very taxing on your patience! But eventually you will have a dog who can sit and wait while you attach his leash to his collar and open the door. The next step is teaching the dog to walk without pulling on the leash!
Option 1:Walk in your intended direction. The moment you feel the dog pulling on the leash, stop dead in your tracks and wait. When the dog stops pulling (maybe he turns to see what you’re doing), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say “Yes,” give him a treat, and resume walking. With any luck, your dog will look up at you because of the tasty treat. Immediately say “Yes” and give another treat while you keep walking. If the dog pulls again, repeat the same steps: stop dead and wait, when the dog relaxes the pressure on the leash, call him to you, have him sit, say “Yes” and give a treat, then resume walking. Take every opportunity to reward the dog for staying next to you and/or looking up at you, while continuing to walk. If you do this consistently, the dog learns two things: (1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and he gets to keep moving, and (2) if he pulls on the leash, it’s a pain in the butt because he doesn’t get to keep moving AND he has to come back to you and sit. If you see that your dog is pulling toward an object to sniff or eliminate, follow the same rules but when the dog comes back and sits by you, say “Yes” and release him to go to the object (provided you are close enough that he doesn’t need to pull). After a few days or weeks, you will find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward your dog for good behavior or he will regress back to pulling.
Option 2:Before you begin walking, call your dog’s name to get his attention. When he looks up at you, show him that you have a few tasty treats in your free hand. Hold your hand in front of your dog’s face so he is looking at the treats, maybe even trying to nibble at one. Say “Let’s walk,” and move in your intended direction. Every few seconds, pop a small treat into the dog’s mouth. Praise your dog for walking along at your pace. If the dog stops and sniffs or pulls ahead, stop and gain your dog’s attention. Have him sit, show him the treats, and start again. Gradually, over days or weeks, pull your hand up closer to your body. If your dog jumps up to get the treat, say “uh uh” and tuck your hand in tight to your body. When all four of his feet are back on the ground, say “Good!” and reposition your hand. When you reward the dog, reach down to his face to pop the treat in his mouth. When he can walk along without pulling and with your hand in a more natural position beside your body, tuck your hand in a pocket. Continue to reward frequently. Eventually you should be able to walk with your hand comfortably at your side, reaching into your pocket to grab a treat to reward the dog. Over time, gradually increase the amount of time between treats so your dog is walking along for longer distances between treats.Option 3 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):For some dogs, stopping and waiting or luring with treats is not sufficient to give them the idea that they shouldn’t pull. Instead of stopping, teach the dog that when he pulls, it’s a signal for you to turn and walk back the way you came. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep moving. If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, don’t say anything to the dog. Just turn abruptly so your dog will check himself at the end of the leash. As your dog runs to catch up to you, praise him. When he reaches you, turn and walk in your original direction. If he pulls again, turn around again. He will learn that pulling is unpleasant because he gets checked against the end of the leash AND he gets farther away from his destination. Be sure to follow the same instructions as above for rewarding the dog when he walks without pulling.
**** Be advised that if your dog is RUNNING at full speed toward the end of the leash, you could inflict physical damage to his neck if you allow him to check himself against the leash without giving him any slack. Allow your arm to absorb most of the force when you turn so the dog is surprised but not harmed.
Option 4 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):More resistant dogs may need a jerk on the collar when they pull. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep moving. If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, say, “I said, easy,” in a firm tone, and jerk back on the leash so the dog feels pressure on the front of his neck. To do this, you will need to reach your arm forward a few inches to give yourself the slack on the leash to jerk back. Make sure your action is a jerk and not a pull. You may need to do this a couple of times before the dog slows down. How much pressure you exert when you jerk back depends on the dog. If your dog is small or sensitive, you will need only slight force. If your dog is large and tenacious, you may need a stronger arm.
**** Be advised that if you apply an inordinate amount of effort when you jerk on the dog’s collar, you can inflict physical damage to the neck. A dog’s trachea is susceptible to bruising, so be extremely cautious when using this approach.
What sort of equipment should you use?While you are teaching your dog not to pull on the leash, you should use a 4- or 6-foot leash. Use a width and a material that are comfortable for your hand. Chain leashes are awkward to use and should be avoided unless you have a dog who easily chews through leashes. There are elasticized leashes (made of “bungee” material) that work well to discourage pulling in some dogs. Extendable leashes, such as the FlexiTM, or leashes longer than 6 feet are appropriate for giving the dog exercise while on leash but are inappropriate for teaching a dog not to pull.
GOOD Collar Choices:
- A regular buckle collar - A martingale collar (also called a limited slip collar)- A head halter/head collar (such as the Halti™, Gentle Leader™, Snoot Loop™)- A no-pull harness (such as the Sensation™ or the Lupi™)- The head halters and no-pull harnesses may decrease pulling without additional training.
UNSUITABLE Collar Choices:
- A regular body harness (actually encourages pulling)- A fabric or metal choke/check collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a certified trainer) - A pinch/prong collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a certified trainer)
Dogs who Resist Walking on Leash
There are dogs who are reluctant to walk on leash—and instead of pulling, they freeze or turn and pull back toward home. Often such dogs are fearful, and they need a boost in confidence to feel comfortable walking on leash. One approach is to lure the dog along by holding tasty treats in front of his face. If the dog is not too afraid, he should follow the treats and gradually will become more comfortable walking with you.
A second method is to stop a few feet in front of the dog and wait when he freezes. If the dog shows any signs of moving toward you, say “Yes!” and reach to the dog to deliver a treat. Walk a few more feet away and again, wait for the dog to voluntarily move toward you. Praise and reward the dog for forward movement only.
The third method is only appropriate for small- to medium-sized dogs who will walk for stretches at a time, but then balk for no apparent reason. Have the dog wear a regular body harness, and pick the dog up by the back of the harness and move him a few feet along. This will often “jump start” the dog to move again. Say “Yes!” and offer a treat when the dog begins to move. Try to anticipate when the dog will balk and lure him along with treats so that he never stops.
Whatever method you choose, sometimes it can help to start out by walking the dog in less frightening environments. Instead of walking on a busy road, opt for a quiet residential street or a path through the park. When the dog develops a level of comfort in the low-key places, gradually progress to busier areas.
Your dog may respond well if you ask him to engage in other behaviors when he stops forward movement. Ask the dog to sit, down, make eye contact, shake a paw, or execute any convenient behavior that he knows and enjoys performing. Sometimes this helps the dog forget why he was nervous, and so he begins walking again. Of course, you must always praise and reward him for performing these behaviors.
Fearful and insecure dogs benefit from low-key exposure to the world. Rather than going for a walk, try sitting on bench and just hang out with the dog. Talk to him and periodically give him treats when you see any signs that he’s relaxing in the situation
Dogs have to be taught to walk nicely on a leash. They are not born knowing that they shouldn’t pull or lag behind, after all. Teaching leash manners can be challenging, primarily because dogs are wildly excited about going for walks, and they find it so rewarding to do their own thing. Some dogs are determined to get where they are going as fast as they possibly can; other dogs want to stop, sniff, and urinate on anything and everything in their path. If you plan to teach your dog to walk nicely on a loose leash, it is critical that you never allow the dog to be rewarded for pulling. If you are inconsistent, your dog will continue to pull because sometimes it pays off. This means that even if you’re in a hurry to take the dog out, you can’t relax the rules and permit the dog to pull!
You may have seen “obedience dogs” at shows or on TV who prance alongside their handlers, staring up with rapt attention. These dogs have been trained in precision heeling. While this looks incredible, it is not something a dog can do for long periods of time. Precision heeling demands constant attention from both dog and handler and is not appropriate for your daily walks around the block or to the park. Even these dogs have been taught basic manners to be able to walk along on a loose leash.
There are various methods for teaching a dog to walk without pulling. No one method works for all dogs. There are certain rules that ought to be followed no matter which approach you opt for:- Until your dog learns to walk without pulling, all walks are training sessions. Keep training sessions frequent, short, and fun for the dog.- Teaching a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of rewards. Use highly desirable treats that the dog does not have access to at other times. Soft treats are best so the dog can eat them quickly. Most dogs love sliced wieners, small cubes of cheese, cut-up pieces of cooked chicken, small chunks of jerky treat and freeze-dried liver. - You’ll be more successful if you find a way to tire the dog out before taking him for a training walk. Dogs pull in part because they are filled with excess energy, and unless you can expend that energy, it will be very hard for your dog to control himself. Play fetch in the hallway or backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive the dog to the park so he can play with his buddies before you attempt to teach him to walk nicely on leash. - Walk at a good, quick pace. If the dog is trotting or running, he has less opportunity to catch a whiff of something enticing, and he is less inclined to stop and eliminate every few steps. You are far more interesting to the dog when you move quickly. - All dogs need to sniff and eliminate on walks. Some dogs take forever choosing the exact best spot on which to urinate or defecate! Allow your dog a certain amount of time, then say, “Okay hurry up,” and give a light tug on the collar. Give him another 30 seconds and repeat, “Okay, let’s walk,” in a firmer tone of voice. Pull the dog away from the spot and resume walking. This way you are giving your dog a warning—and if he really wants to urinate in that spot, he knows he has 30 seconds in which to do it! - If you expect your dog to be controlled while walking on leash, you must also expect him to be controlled before you go for the walk. If your dog gets wildly excited as you prepare to go for a walk, you need to start your training at this point. Walk to the door and pick up the leash. If your dog is racing back and forth from you to the door, barking, whining, spinning, or jumping up, stop and ask your dog to sit. If the dog continues to be wild, put the leash down and go sit and read the paper. Try again a few minutes later. Continue until the dog actually does sit. Praise and reach to put the leash on the dog. If he jumps out of the sit, drop the leash, stand up tall, and say “Sit.” Wait. When the dog sits, try again. This is tedious training that will make your first few attempts to go for a walk very taxing on your patience! But eventually you will have a dog who can sit and wait while you attach his leash to his collar and open the door. The next step is teaching the dog to walk without pulling on the leash!
Option 1:Walk in your intended direction. The moment you feel the dog pulling on the leash, stop dead in your tracks and wait. When the dog stops pulling (maybe he turns to see what you’re doing), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say “Yes,” give him a treat, and resume walking. With any luck, your dog will look up at you because of the tasty treat. Immediately say “Yes” and give another treat while you keep walking. If the dog pulls again, repeat the same steps: stop dead and wait, when the dog relaxes the pressure on the leash, call him to you, have him sit, say “Yes” and give a treat, then resume walking. Take every opportunity to reward the dog for staying next to you and/or looking up at you, while continuing to walk. If you do this consistently, the dog learns two things: (1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and he gets to keep moving, and (2) if he pulls on the leash, it’s a pain in the butt because he doesn’t get to keep moving AND he has to come back to you and sit. If you see that your dog is pulling toward an object to sniff or eliminate, follow the same rules but when the dog comes back and sits by you, say “Yes” and release him to go to the object (provided you are close enough that he doesn’t need to pull). After a few days or weeks, you will find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward your dog for good behavior or he will regress back to pulling.
Option 2:Before you begin walking, call your dog’s name to get his attention. When he looks up at you, show him that you have a few tasty treats in your free hand. Hold your hand in front of your dog’s face so he is looking at the treats, maybe even trying to nibble at one. Say “Let’s walk,” and move in your intended direction. Every few seconds, pop a small treat into the dog’s mouth. Praise your dog for walking along at your pace. If the dog stops and sniffs or pulls ahead, stop and gain your dog’s attention. Have him sit, show him the treats, and start again. Gradually, over days or weeks, pull your hand up closer to your body. If your dog jumps up to get the treat, say “uh uh” and tuck your hand in tight to your body. When all four of his feet are back on the ground, say “Good!” and reposition your hand. When you reward the dog, reach down to his face to pop the treat in his mouth. When he can walk along without pulling and with your hand in a more natural position beside your body, tuck your hand in a pocket. Continue to reward frequently. Eventually you should be able to walk with your hand comfortably at your side, reaching into your pocket to grab a treat to reward the dog. Over time, gradually increase the amount of time between treats so your dog is walking along for longer distances between treats.Option 3 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):For some dogs, stopping and waiting or luring with treats is not sufficient to give them the idea that they shouldn’t pull. Instead of stopping, teach the dog that when he pulls, it’s a signal for you to turn and walk back the way you came. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep moving. If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, don’t say anything to the dog. Just turn abruptly so your dog will check himself at the end of the leash. As your dog runs to catch up to you, praise him. When he reaches you, turn and walk in your original direction. If he pulls again, turn around again. He will learn that pulling is unpleasant because he gets checked against the end of the leash AND he gets farther away from his destination. Be sure to follow the same instructions as above for rewarding the dog when he walks without pulling.
**** Be advised that if your dog is RUNNING at full speed toward the end of the leash, you could inflict physical damage to his neck if you allow him to check himself against the leash without giving him any slack. Allow your arm to absorb most of the force when you turn so the dog is surprised but not harmed.
Option 4 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):More resistant dogs may need a jerk on the collar when they pull. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep moving. If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, say, “I said, easy,” in a firm tone, and jerk back on the leash so the dog feels pressure on the front of his neck. To do this, you will need to reach your arm forward a few inches to give yourself the slack on the leash to jerk back. Make sure your action is a jerk and not a pull. You may need to do this a couple of times before the dog slows down. How much pressure you exert when you jerk back depends on the dog. If your dog is small or sensitive, you will need only slight force. If your dog is large and tenacious, you may need a stronger arm.
**** Be advised that if you apply an inordinate amount of effort when you jerk on the dog’s collar, you can inflict physical damage to the neck. A dog’s trachea is susceptible to bruising, so be extremely cautious when using this approach.
What sort of equipment should you use?While you are teaching your dog not to pull on the leash, you should use a 4- or 6-foot leash. Use a width and a material that are comfortable for your hand. Chain leashes are awkward to use and should be avoided unless you have a dog who easily chews through leashes. There are elasticized leashes (made of “bungee” material) that work well to discourage pulling in some dogs. Extendable leashes, such as the FlexiTM, or leashes longer than 6 feet are appropriate for giving the dog exercise while on leash but are inappropriate for teaching a dog not to pull.
GOOD Collar Choices:
- A regular buckle collar - A martingale collar (also called a limited slip collar)- A head halter/head collar (such as the Halti™, Gentle Leader™, Snoot Loop™)- A no-pull harness (such as the Sensation™ or the Lupi™)- The head halters and no-pull harnesses may decrease pulling without additional training.
UNSUITABLE Collar Choices:
- A regular body harness (actually encourages pulling)- A fabric or metal choke/check collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a certified trainer) - A pinch/prong collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a certified trainer)
Dogs who Resist Walking on Leash
There are dogs who are reluctant to walk on leash—and instead of pulling, they freeze or turn and pull back toward home. Often such dogs are fearful, and they need a boost in confidence to feel comfortable walking on leash. One approach is to lure the dog along by holding tasty treats in front of his face. If the dog is not too afraid, he should follow the treats and gradually will become more comfortable walking with you.
A second method is to stop a few feet in front of the dog and wait when he freezes. If the dog shows any signs of moving toward you, say “Yes!” and reach to the dog to deliver a treat. Walk a few more feet away and again, wait for the dog to voluntarily move toward you. Praise and reward the dog for forward movement only.
The third method is only appropriate for small- to medium-sized dogs who will walk for stretches at a time, but then balk for no apparent reason. Have the dog wear a regular body harness, and pick the dog up by the back of the harness and move him a few feet along. This will often “jump start” the dog to move again. Say “Yes!” and offer a treat when the dog begins to move. Try to anticipate when the dog will balk and lure him along with treats so that he never stops.
Whatever method you choose, sometimes it can help to start out by walking the dog in less frightening environments. Instead of walking on a busy road, opt for a quiet residential street or a path through the park. When the dog develops a level of comfort in the low-key places, gradually progress to busier areas.
Your dog may respond well if you ask him to engage in other behaviors when he stops forward movement. Ask the dog to sit, down, make eye contact, shake a paw, or execute any convenient behavior that he knows and enjoys performing. Sometimes this helps the dog forget why he was nervous, and so he begins walking again. Of course, you must always praise and reward him for performing these behaviors.
Fearful and insecure dogs benefit from low-key exposure to the world. Rather than going for a walk, try sitting on bench and just hang out with the dog. Talk to him and periodically give him treats when you see any signs that he’s relaxing in the situation
Friday, August 15, 2008
First-of-Its-Kind Animal Abandonment Law Passed!
ASPCA Victory: First-of-Its-Kind Animal Abandonment Law Passed!
The subprime mortgage crisis that has devastated homeowners and the economy has brought with it a troubling trend: pets abandoned after home foreclosures. Those who assess deserted homes are often directed to leave property—including pets—untouched until the foreclosure process is completed. As a result, many pets have been left to die.
The ASPCA would like to congratulate the California Legislature for addressing this issue with the swift passage of Assembly Bill 2949, which amends California’s Civil Code to require property owners—including banks or other corporate entities—to immediately notify animal control officials when animals are abandoned at foreclosed properties.
AB 2949 was born out of California State Assemblyman Mark DeSaulnier’s annual “There Ought to Be a Law” contest. Contest winner Sheri Kuticka recognized this tragic consequence of the housing market downturn, and suggested that something be done to help abandoned animals. She, along with the ASPCA and the California Animal Association, cosponsored the legislation, which was signed into law by Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger on August 4.
“While pets are mere ‘property’ in the eyes of the law, the difference between a cat and a stereo is self-evident,” says Californian Jill Buckley, ASPCA Senior Director of Government Relations. “Before this law, a lot of well-meaning people’s hands were tied when they found pets in empty homes. Of course, the most important thing is for folks not to abandon their pets in the first place—but at least now, these unlucky animals will have a chance to get the life-saving care they need.”
The subprime mortgage crisis that has devastated homeowners and the economy has brought with it a troubling trend: pets abandoned after home foreclosures. Those who assess deserted homes are often directed to leave property—including pets—untouched until the foreclosure process is completed. As a result, many pets have been left to die.
The ASPCA would like to congratulate the California Legislature for addressing this issue with the swift passage of Assembly Bill 2949, which amends California’s Civil Code to require property owners—including banks or other corporate entities—to immediately notify animal control officials when animals are abandoned at foreclosed properties.
AB 2949 was born out of California State Assemblyman Mark DeSaulnier’s annual “There Ought to Be a Law” contest. Contest winner Sheri Kuticka recognized this tragic consequence of the housing market downturn, and suggested that something be done to help abandoned animals. She, along with the ASPCA and the California Animal Association, cosponsored the legislation, which was signed into law by Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger on August 4.
“While pets are mere ‘property’ in the eyes of the law, the difference between a cat and a stereo is self-evident,” says Californian Jill Buckley, ASPCA Senior Director of Government Relations. “Before this law, a lot of well-meaning people’s hands were tied when they found pets in empty homes. Of course, the most important thing is for folks not to abandon their pets in the first place—but at least now, these unlucky animals will have a chance to get the life-saving care they need.”
STOP FLEAS
Pet Health Alert: Protect Fido and Fluffy from Fleas
As the festive days of summer wane in many parts of the country, one little parasite keeps the party hopping in warm, humid areas where he reigns. With nearly 2,000 species and subspecies, the flea thrives at temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees and feeds on the blood of the unsuspecting—especially cats and dogs.
Fleas are hearty and nimble pests, and when searching for a host, they can jump up to two feet, 10,000 times in a row—that adds up to the length of three football fields! They can also cause troublesome health problems in companion animals, such as anemia, skin allergies and tapeworms. These legendary leapers are tough to fight, but the ASPCA offers tips that will rub your pets the right way:
Know your enemy: Confirm your pet has fleas by identifying signs such as droppings or “flea dirt” in your pet’s coat, excessive scratching and scabs.
What goes around comes around: Treat all of your pets, not just those who show outward signs of infestation.
Shine on, pet parent: Thoroughly clean your house, including rugs, bedding and upholstery, and discard any used vacuum bags.
Honor—and trim—nature’s gifts: Since fleas love long grass and shady outdoor spots, remember to treat and maintain your yard as carefully as your house.
Doctor knows best: Talk to your vet about choosing the right, species-specific treatment for your pet, such as a topical, liquid insecticide applied to the back of the neck. Never use products for dogs on cats, and vice versa. Also ask your vet to recommend products for treating your yard.
“Cats especially are extremely sensitive to insecticides, and pets can die from improper use of flea control products,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist & ASPCA Senior Vice President. “Just a few drops of concentrated permethrin, present in many spot-on treatments for dogs, can be lethal to cats.”
To avoid accidents, pet parents should read all product labels and follow directions for proper use. For more information about flea prevention and pet health, please read our top ten medical tips. And enjoy an itch-free end of summer!
As the festive days of summer wane in many parts of the country, one little parasite keeps the party hopping in warm, humid areas where he reigns. With nearly 2,000 species and subspecies, the flea thrives at temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees and feeds on the blood of the unsuspecting—especially cats and dogs.
Fleas are hearty and nimble pests, and when searching for a host, they can jump up to two feet, 10,000 times in a row—that adds up to the length of three football fields! They can also cause troublesome health problems in companion animals, such as anemia, skin allergies and tapeworms. These legendary leapers are tough to fight, but the ASPCA offers tips that will rub your pets the right way:
Know your enemy: Confirm your pet has fleas by identifying signs such as droppings or “flea dirt” in your pet’s coat, excessive scratching and scabs.
What goes around comes around: Treat all of your pets, not just those who show outward signs of infestation.
Shine on, pet parent: Thoroughly clean your house, including rugs, bedding and upholstery, and discard any used vacuum bags.
Honor—and trim—nature’s gifts: Since fleas love long grass and shady outdoor spots, remember to treat and maintain your yard as carefully as your house.
Doctor knows best: Talk to your vet about choosing the right, species-specific treatment for your pet, such as a topical, liquid insecticide applied to the back of the neck. Never use products for dogs on cats, and vice versa. Also ask your vet to recommend products for treating your yard.
“Cats especially are extremely sensitive to insecticides, and pets can die from improper use of flea control products,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist & ASPCA Senior Vice President. “Just a few drops of concentrated permethrin, present in many spot-on treatments for dogs, can be lethal to cats.”
To avoid accidents, pet parents should read all product labels and follow directions for proper use. For more information about flea prevention and pet health, please read our top ten medical tips. And enjoy an itch-free end of summer!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
